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A. Optimize
Power needs
B. Determine
Battery Bank Size
C. Determine
Solar availability
First we’ll need to tabulate your solar energy
load, and then we’ll have to optimize that energy load. This means
making your PV energy load as efficient as possible. Cost savings can
be substantial. It is much easier to optimize/reduce your energy load
(for instance by purchasing more efficient appliances), than to increase
the size of your PV system – to power an inefficient load. There
are numerous energy efficient products available. (for example, upgrading
to a hi-efficiency or propane refrigerator may be a better buy than
buying more PV panels + batteries to power your old fridge). Check out
various appliances on www.solarhome.org .
The first step will be to determine your PV energy usage. Which electrical
loads do you want to run off your PV system? Make a list and record
the wattage of each unit (appliance, stereo, computer, entertainment
item, etc.) Each unit and appliance has a nameplate on it that tells
you how many watts it needs. You could also look up the units’
model# on the web, look at a specification sheet, or ask an appliance
dealer/manufacturer to get the wattage rating.
First make a table (Figure 3) of your daily
and weekly energy needs, by multiplying the unit’s watts X the
average # hours per day and then X the average days per week that you
use it.
Wh (Watt hours) / day
= Watts X average hours/day use
Wh (Watt hours)/ week = Wh(Watt
hours)/day X average days/wk use

Figure 3: Energy load chart
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To determine your Amp Hours
(AH) simply divide your Watt Hours (WH) by 120*(volts). In our example
the 5030 WH becomes 42 AH (5030/120).
* We are assuming that all units are operating
at 120VAC

If you will do net metering (selling your electricity
to your utility company), then you can skip this section. If you are
going to be independent of the utility company, you will need to install
batteries to power your electrical loads at night and on cloudy days.
Determining your electrical storage needs requires that
you assess your nighttime energy usage and how many days without sunshine
(cloudy days) you want your electrical loads to operate. Many people
allow for 4-6 nighttime hours and 2-4 cloudy days. Anything higher than
this will add substantially to your battery size and cost.

Temperature:
Keep in mind is that batteries are sensitive to temperatures –
hot and cold. Try to keep you batteries in a relatively warm and
dry location. Solar charge controllers usually have temperature
compensation built into them.
Mix and match:
Don’t! It is important to purchase and install the same type
batteries all at one time. Mixing different battery types, sizes
and especially different ages (states of discharge) will cause more
problems than it is worth, as the battery bank will seek the state
of its weakest link.
Type of battery:
Only deep discharge batteries should be used on a stand-alone solar
system. Some people use RV or marina type batteries, but you’re
better off with industrial grade deep-discharge batteries for longer
life.There are many different types of batteries. Contact your local
battery distributor or the web for a review of these.
Amp-hours:
All batteries have some # amp hour rating. A battery rated at 100
amp hours (20 hour reference) will deliver 5 amp hours for 20 hours
before being discharged. The higher the amp hour rating, generally
the more expensive, heavier and longer the battery will hold a charge.
From your Energy Load Chart (see Figure 3 example) multiply
your Amp Hours per Day times the number of cloudy days that you want
your system to provide continual power for. Divide this by how deep
you want to discharge your batteries (no more than 70%) and that is
the amp hour rating of the batteries you’ll need:
AmpHours/Day X # Cloudy
Days / 0.70+ = Amp Hour rating of Batteries
In our example from Figure 3 of 42 AmpHours/day, if we want to store
energy for 3 cloudy days and not have our batteries go below 70% discharge;
we would need 180 AmpHours of battery power [ (42 X 3) / 0.7 = 180 ].
If we were going to operate these batteries around 40-50 F continually,
we would add another 20% capacity (216 AH).
Now you can buy one battery rated at 180 AH, or you can buy several
batteries (for instance 3 @ 60 AH) and wire them
in parallel.
Battery Voltage: Most
solar PV system batteries use a combination of 6 or 12 VDC batteries.
Sometimes these batteries are wired in series to provide 24 or 48VDC
power for hi-power PV arrays. Sometimes these batteries are wired in
parallel to provide more amp-hours at the same voltage.
Solar system batteries are usually heavy, contain heavy metal toxins,
can be costly to transport, and local servicing and exchange may be
needed. It is usually a good practice to stay local with batteries.
You’ll probably find an industrial forklift or golf-cart type
battery distributor in your locale that will work for your solar PV
system battery needs.
The workhorse of the solar PV industry is the Trojan L-16.
It has been used on thousands of solar systems since the 1980’s
and has stood the test of time regarding cost, maintenance, and end-of-life
replacements. They can last anywhere from 5-15+ years depending on how
you monitor and take care of them.
There are some basics to follow
if you want to extend the life of your batteries:
1. Always
install and/or replace batteries in sets. Batteries like to be together
in the same group. If you have 8 batteries in your system, avoid replacing
just one or two batteries: Install them all at the same time, and
replace them all at the same time.
2. Keep the battery enclosure
temperature between 50-90°F.
3. Avoid moving or disturbing
your batteries once they are installed.
4. Make battery connections
properly - avoid battery post corrosion.
5. At least 2-3 times
each year test the electrolyte of each and every battery cell with
a hygrometer. Some people like recording the levels and look for changing
trends to tell them when to replace their battery set.

In order to size your solar system properly, you need
to figure out how much sun (solar radiation) you have available. Be
sure your site has good exposure to an unobstructed and open sky. Remember
that solar angles change considerably between summer and winter. All
solar installations are optimized for winter and some for spring/fall
solar angles. If your home’s ‘solar view’ is shaded
by trees, adjacent structures, or other obstructions, especially at
the south/south-west; you may need to move – just kidding!

1.
Walk around
2.
Web based solar radiation data
3.
Calculating Solar sun angles
1.
The easiest and least accurate way is to
walk around your property and look for the best solar
view –pretend you’re a solar collector and you need sun
- look for the maximum amount of open sky you have available throughout
the typical day.
2.
The next best way (our recommendation) is to get solar radiation data
from good web sources:
Go to this web site:
http://solardat.uoregon.edu/SunChartProgram.html
Enter your location zip code, the time frame you’d like to see
solar availability, and view the results for your specific location.
Or
Go to this web site: http://rredc.nrel.gov/solar/old_data/nsrdb/redbook/atlas
Enter the time of year you’re interested in, along with the
type of solar collector (usually flat, oriented south) and look at
a map of your available energy.
If you’re in the blue area of Figure 4,
you’ll need a lot more solar panels than if you are in the dark
yellow or red areas.

Figure 4. Available of US Solar
radiation
3.
Buy a solar angle calculator
and learn how to use it properly. It basically consists of a transparent
sun tracker for your specific latitude that you position where your
PV panels will be located. You can estimate or mathematically calculate
the amount of solar radiation available for each month of the year at
your specific location. This is very time consuming, and not for the
timid.
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Note: the further from the equator that
you are the less solar radiation you will have. Consider moving where
the sun shines more (just kidding, well maybe not!). There are certain
steps (such as trackers and concentrators) you can take if you have
less than ideal solar radiation available.
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